Tips and Hints for Stihl Products

Whipper Snippers / Brush Cutters
> How to Rewind Your Trimmer Head or Sharpen Metal Blades.                                                                                            

Chainsaws
> Tensioning the chain correctly & The right way to fit the chain and bar.
> Starting your stihl chainsaw.

How to sharpen your chain below!

Cox Mower Maintenance Tips

My cutter is cutting uneven and is too low in the front?
Check and adjust tyre pressures, especially the front tyres. Check tyre diameters, one maybe worn or a different brand replacement used. The cutter is usually low on the side of the smallest diameter front tyre. Some times swapping the front wheels will correct the problem. If this is not possible, remove the cutter assembly connecting linkage and clamp in a vice and twist linkage to suit. On late model machines there is a slide adjuster on the front axle to cutter linkage for left to right adjustment. With engine off and tyre pressures checked, engage the cutter and adjust the rear lifting link nut to level the deck front to rear. The height control handle will raise one or two notches for full height.

My mower does not cut grass cleanly?
Check and adjust engine belt, check blades are not bent up, twisted or worn, blades have been fitted the right way. Also check for wear in cutter pulley’s and other belt tension.

When I disengage the cutter, the belt comes off?
Check belt guides at cutter pulley, one or both are either bent out or broken (missing). Too much disengagement.

I fitted a new cutter belt and the cutter brake won’t stop the cutter.
Cutter disengagement should be adjusted so that when the engine is started and the cutter is raised to full height there is no take up of the belt. The cutter brake will only stop the disc if the cutter belt disengagement is adjusted correctly. (Screw adjuster out for more disengagement). Belt may be stretched (replace).

My drive chain keeps coming off and is stretching?
First, check the sprocket alignment, either the rear axle or internal shaft has moved. Check both sprockets for wear, especially the small sprocket, as this will reduce the life of a new chain. Lubricate the chain (motorbike type chain lube), chains will wear from rust between the pins and rollers. Also check and adjust engine belt as increased clutch pedal pressure may have pushed the internal shaft out of alignment. Tighten bearing grub screws and lock collars.

I may be over-tightening the drive chain, what is the correct adjustment?
Jack up the rear of the machine, lubricate the chain and adjust the chain idler so there is a small amount of slack in the chain at it’s tightest point while slowly rotating the rear wheels.

The steering is stiff and the steering wheel comes loose all the time?
If the stub axles have not been greased or greased correctly for some time, they will start to tighten up and place more load on the steering universal and wheel. Regular greasing is necessary especially in dusty dry conditions or after the machine has been washed. When greasing, enough grease should be purged through to clear the old grease out from the top and bottom of the stub axle bush. The front of the mower should be jacked up, if no grease exudes from the bottom of the bush then pump grease through again. If this is not successful the stub axle will have to be removed to clear the grease ways.

Can I hose my machine down with water to clean it?
Yes, however, compressed air is preferred. If using water pressure the machine MUST BE cold or allowed to cool down for a minimum of two hours after use. After hosing check and service engine air cleaner as water may have entered (do not apply high-pressure water to hour meter and switches). The machine should be started, driven and cutter engaged then stopped and allowed to dry before greasing stub axles and lubricating chain and linkages etc, before storage. (Use compressed air and wipe clean if possible).

What type of fuel and oil should I use in my mower?
  › Unleaded petrol and SAE30 oil in Briggs & Stratton and Tecumseh engines.
  › Unleaded petrol and SAE10W30 oil in Kohler or Honda engines.

Engine does not start (turn over) and there is a clicking sound from around the dash (steering console) area?
The clicking sound is the solenoid operating which usually indicates the electrical circuit is ok (micro switches). Check the battery, solenoid, starter and earth terminals are clean and tight. If all connections are correct the fault lies in the battery. The battery should be removed and charged and if it will not accept or hold charge it needs replacing. Allow battery to stand for minimum of 30 minutes after charging before installing.

Engine does not start (turn over). The battery has been checked and there is no clicking sound?
With the ignition switched off connect a wire from the live side of the battery or from the solenoid terminal to the small terminal, connection on the side of the solenoid. (Where the blue wire is connected). The solenoid should pull in and the engine turn over, if it does not the solenoid is faulty. If the solenoid is ok, the fault is in the wiring or micro switches. To check micro switches, disconnect the blue wires from the heel switch and join together (a paper clip can be used), do the same with the disengagement handle switch, then attempt to start the engine. If the engine turns over the fault is in one or both switches.

To check which one simply reconnect one switch at a time and attempt to start the engine. If the engine fails to turn over after connecting the blue wires together, with the paper clip the fault is in the wiring. The machine should be checked out by a Cox dealer or an Auto Electrician if the above test procedure is difficult.

DO NOT OPERATE THE MOWER WITH FAULTY OR DISCONNECTED MICRO (SAFETY) SWITCHES.

Remember to connect the blue wires to the correct terminals 1 and 3, failure to do this may burn out the engine ignition coil.

How do I get the front and rear wheels off my mower?
Front Wheel
Remove hub cap using multi grips, jack up machine and remove the stub axle nut using 30mm or 1 3/16” socket spanner or remove the steering tie rod bolt and split pin or circlip on the stub axle and allow the wheel assembly to drop out.

Rear Wheel
Using a 24mm or 15/16 socket spanner, remove the rear axle nut and washer. Spray the axle both sides of the wheel hub with CRC or similar. Replace the nut and leave flush with the end of the axle. With the mower still on the ground use a suitable solid drift (brass, aluminium, hard wood) against the axle and nut, and with two or three solid hits with a large hammer the wheel hub should break free from the taper on the axle. Jack the machine up to remove wheel. When replacing wheel hub, grease the axle before installing, keeping grease clear of axle taper. Tighten axle nut firmly and re check for tightness after 5 to 10 hours of operation.

Note: If possible, pump up a flat tyre before trying to remove a rear wheel.

The wheels were designed to allow the tyres to be removed without removing the wheel. Jack machine up and break the tyre bead away from both sides of the rim, squeeze the tyre sides together and push down into well of rim and peel out over the bottom edge.

Tips and Hints for mowing

Lawn Care Maintenance

The benefits of mowing 
Mowers that can mulch are most beneficial for your lawn. That's because they recycle grass clipping back into the lawn, providing valuable nutrients for sustained growth. What's more, the blades on mulching mowers are designed to break down the cut grass into very small pieces, then distribute them evenly over the lawn where they quickly break down without leaving a trace.

Mower cutting heights 
Grass grows fastest and is at its healthiest, in the warmer months, so decreasing your cutting height down to 2.5cm won't affect it too much. During cooler months, grass grows much slower so it's a good idea to raise your cutting height a little so as not to damage it. As a general rule, it's wise not to cut your grass lower than 2.5cm. The big risk of mowing low is 'scalping' which browns your grass. Scalp your lawn repeatedly and you risk weakening it, allowing more weeds and diseases to take hold.

How often to mow 
As a guide, you should mow once a week or at the very least, once a fortnight during Summer, and around once every three or four weeks n Winter. At other times, you'll probably vary between these extremes depending on how fast your own individual lawn is growing. Other seasons Infrequent mowing can cause a lawn to become "stalky" and less attractive. This is especially the case with popular grasses such as Couch and Kikuyu. So it is advisable to mow regularly, with sharp blades, to keep your lawn looking its best.

What kind of mower 
The three most popular types of rotary-action lawnmowers today are mulching mowers, mulch or catch machines and cut & catch models. If you have a large lawn area, be sure to choose a mower that is powerful enough to handle the job. For small to medium-sized areas, it could be more beneficial to choose a mower that offers a mix of solid performance and low maintenance.

Watering advice 
As most of us learned at school, Australia is the driest populated continent on Earth. But did you know that around 40 to 50% of annual residential water consumption in Australia goes in watering gardens and lawns. And unfortunately, we use about twice as much water as we need. To reduce your water bill and still get the job done, consider these important points:

• For sandy soil, mulch regularly to improve its water-holding ability
• Water in the early morning or late afternoon / evening - depending on local water restrictions and regulations - to maximise nourishment and reduce evaporation
• As soon as the water starts to run off the surface, it's time to stop because you're beginning to waste water!
• Check your nozzle and sprinkler regularly to ensure they work well & don't leak
• Install an approved rainwater system and tank.

Fertilising tips 
Every time you mow the lawn and remove the grass clippings you're depriving the remaining lawn of rich nutrients it has extracted from the soil. That's why mulching is such a good idea. For those who don't mulch regularly, your lawn could benefit considerably from fertilising during spring and summer. Try to seek out fertilisers which supply the correct balance of the three major nutrients required for a healthy lawn with uniform growth. A mix of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in a ratio of 3:1:2 is ideal.

Victa Lawncare

Copyright 2014 STIHL Pty Ltd. Reproduced with Permission
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